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From:
Mark
Category: Drink & Food
Date: 16/11/2006
Time: 06:45:41
This is a longer version of the interview that appeared in Food Magazine.
English wines are now of an international quality - there are over 300 vineyards and 100 wineries in the UK . They can invariably employ Aussie or 'flying' winemakers and even make use of oak barrels to give a more international flavour. However, I think the best wines from England (and Devon) will be its fizz, its whites and its Rosés. Its fizz is on par with what Champagne has to offer, its whites, using exciting grape varieties such as Bacchus or Seyval are as good, if not better, than much of what the Loire has to offer - in terms of Muscadet, Chenin Blanc or even Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre).
Lest not forget that with our warming climate we can get as warm as Beaune (Burgundy) or Reims (Champagne). Rumour has it, some of the large Champagne houses are buying up and land-banking tracts of the South of England as insurance for the future.
In Cornwall, the most famous and delicious fizz is from Camel Valley with its Cornwall Brut. But don't forget that its whites (Bacchus, Atlantic and Seyval are all underrated and lie in the shadow of the multi-award winning fizz etc). In Devon the fizz is super-serious stuff with Down St Mary Premium Reserve, an ever changing mixture of grape varieties. Look out in future for fizz from Yearlstone and Pebblebed made from Pinot Noir (one of the three main grapes of Champagne). Snapping at its heels is Sharpham's Sparkling that is also made with a large dollop of Pinot Noir. Very classy stuff.
For Whites I reckon you cannot go wrong with Yearlstone's Bacchus (for a Loire look-alike) or a more Alsation (Alsace) cum California is their oaked Pinot Gris (aged in American Oak), No.6. Similarly Sharpham's Bacchus is a winner, in a nearly-dry style. Bacchus, for me, is one of the great white hopes for the UK. It is the essence of late-spring English hedgrows, damp meadows, young nettles and crystal clear, piercingly cold brooks. If you cannot get hold of Yearlstone's creation then hope across the border for Bob Lindo's absolute classic at Camel Valley in Cornwall. Further east near Topsham I would plump for the crisp, clean, classy Pebblebed white that has that 'I never would guess that was English' feel about it. If it is a bigger, bolder white you want then I would make a bee-line for Sharpham's Barrel Fermented Dry. Made from Madeleine Angevine and tastes like a Californian or South African Fume Blanc style wine (like an oaked Sauvignon Blanc). Heady stuff indeed. English whites in general are the equal of top notch Muscadet and at times challenge the throne of world-class Sancerre.
For fans of Claret I recommend the iconic Beenleigh Red at Sharpham which is made from classic Bordeaux grape varieties (Cabernet and Merlot). Careful though, it comes at a similarly eye-watering price. Apart from this experimental wine the reds most commonly used in English viticulture are Rondo and Dornfelder. These grapes, designed for cool-climates giving a vibrant, cool beaujolais-cum-valpolicella style with oddles of cherry scented fruit. These red varieties are also used at Pebblebed but for their award winning Rosé (as at Yealstone aswell). But more of that in a minute. For reds I would heartily recommend Yearlstone's No 4 or Sharpham's Red. Both have oodles of fruit and great acidity to cut those rich dishes, turkey or pork plus trimmings.
If you love red Burgundy, then you will be glad you are in Devon. Much of its topography have been seen as akin to the rolling hills and valleys of Burgundy. Pinot Noir is THE grape - a great, if capricious variety, that can make stunning fizz (white) in cooler years, the most majestic of Rosés in warm years and amazing, summer compote reds in scorchingly hot years. Sharpham do a fantastic, world-class Pinot Noir. New plantings at Yearlstone, Blackdown Hills, Pebblebed will ensure plenty of all three styles in years to come (it takes three years before a young vine can produce wine-quality grapes).
One of the most versatile styles of wines is Rosé. Very much in vogue this year. Lets hope this continues. Rosé combines some of the best, most refreshing qualities of whites whilst teasing us with the body and structure of reds. These wines can match light meats and sauces through to darker meats and richer offerings - however they never meld with the flavours of the food they more counterpoint them - highlighting the best through contrast (like lemon cuts cream, like wine cuts butter etc.). For deeper, darker Rosés look to Sharpham's Rosé or Yearlstone's Pinot Noir Rosé No.3 (if you are in Kernow then take a slug of Camel Valley's deep, dark, brooding Rosé). For a classic Provencal style look toward the current release of Pebblebeds award winning Rosé - but I would hurry - it will run out soon.
www.pebblebed.co.uk
www.sharpham.com
www.yearlstone.co.uk
www.english-vineyard.co.uk
www.boyces-manstree.co.uk
www.blackdownhills-vineyard.co.uk
www.camelvalley.com
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