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From:
Mark
Category: Wine
Date: 11/04/2007
Time: 19:04:58
In wine terms I went out last night and had a one night stand. Well I had my goggles on you see. She was 15% and massively full-bodied. Fat even. Wielding a plank of oak to knock me senseless. She assaulted me. In AC-DC terms she ' Knocked me out with those American thighs' and 'Shook me all night long'. Wow...what a girl. All front. But come the morning when I woke with sore head and in denial, I gnawed my arm off so as not to wake her and slunk out the door. I was full of regret. You see it is too easy nowadays to go and buy a big, obvious wine that will knock you for six and make you feel sordid in the morning. Every dimly lit (and brightly for that instance) corner of your 'offie' has them touting for business. It so easy to go for the quick release. The easy. The quick fumble and grope. But really, where's the fun? Tonight I have cradled in my palm a delicate ballerina - studying for a PHD. Because she is still a student, of sorts, she comes on the cheap. But she is still class in a glass. Your tongue can almost have a conversation with her as she lightly dances over your taste buds. Who is she? Well she is a Rully.
Rully 'Cloux L'Ouvrier', Domaine Marguerite Dupasquier 2004, Burgundy, France. £5.99 down from £9.99 Co-Op.
Rully is in a part of Burgundy called the Cote Chalonnaise. This rambling village and commune is home to some of the best value Burgundy. Not usually wines for keeping or with huge body (the light sandy soils lend a delicacy) they often still exhibit some of the tantilising qualities of their more illustrious cousins further north in the Cote d'Or, home to the world's greatest white wines. You see Rully is very much on the up, understudy to the ways of its great neighbours. Rully wines nearly always have a racy acidity (a bit like a Chablis), most probably because of the altitude and aspect of the vineyards means that the grape often struggle to shrug off the acidity for ripening sugars. Nevertheless this is also part of its charm. Sometimes these wines combine the typical hazelnut, baby powder, sugared almond nose that many a good Burgundy exhibits (I think Rully can be similar to that other Burgundy gem Auxy-Duresses).
This wine is no exception. She is light to medium bodied with a chalky, mineral vein and refreshing acidity running through the gingerbread, hazelnut, baby powder, yellow stoned fruit and light oak (using Limousin and Morvan oak). Whilst this is not the best Rully I have tasted she is elegant, delicate and has some real interest. A thoughtful, great value introduction into the world of Burgundy. Although out-gunned by the Rully Premier Cru from Drouhin (see previous blog - my White Wine of the Year 2006) at £9.99 when you think that this wine is discount £5.99 then 'tis a bargain.
Light in frame, racy acidity, elegant, cultured. She might not have it all hanging out but give some time you will fall for her charm. I have no doubt. You see, sometimes its great to take a break from those Southern Belles.
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